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McPher- son:has played an important role in events that have become milestones in the history of the western high Arctic. ‘i Fort McPherson figured predominently in the. man- hunt for Albert Johnson — ~ the mad trapper of Rat River who was shot to death in 1982. Fort McPherson was also the starting point for the ill-fated “lost patrol" of 1910- i. \ The Peel River crossing was particularly memorable for it was hero that'we met and eventually travelled up river with Neil Collins, =" Collins is a'local Loucheux Indian who sells dried fish and northern mementos. at the ferry .crossing. He also operates Dempster Patrol: Outfitters who offer. sight- seeing and fishing trips on the Peel River. © We boarded the “Demp- ster Patrol”, a long, narrow, shallow draft passenger scow favored by northern river- men and headed up river. The boat was named, as was the Dempster Highway, in memory of Corporal Demp- ster who led the successful search for the patrol in 1911. Recent rains had swollen the river and muddied its rushing waters, rendering our stop at Two-Cabin Creek to fish for inconnu unsuce- essful.. Inconnu, known lo- cally as “coney”, are a By JONATHAN MASSEY-SMITH About 100 years ago Crow Indian Chief Piapot tried to stop Canada’s railway from moving west by holding a sit-in in the path of construc- tion. He was not successful. Perhaps more humiliating to Piapot’s memory than the recent’ resurgence in rail travel is the sweeping tide fascination for Canada’s hist- oric rolling stock: From Grand _Trunk’s_ turn-of-the- century. railway station near Upper Canada Village to the impressive ‘collection at Ott- awa’s Museum of Science and Technology, there are hun- dreds.of pieces of historic railway equipment on display - or in operation’ throughout Canada. Historians: agree -the rail- way deserves some credit for its role in shaping Canada, but for Ken Heard, resident train expert in the policy, planning and evaluation group of National Museums of Canada, “noise, sense of power and strength” are prominent among reasons for growing interest in yester- day's trains. For the steam engine, yes- terday was April 24, 1960, when Canada’s last great iron horse, locomotive number 6043, chugged and puffed toa halt in downtown Winnipeg. Though an era has come and gone, rail travel is still alive and well in Canada. Golden Railway _ On a warm August day in 1896, George Carmack stood near the edge of Bonanza Creek near what now is Dawaon, Yukon, and yelled, “Gold!" They say the echo was heard some 6,700 km (4,200 miles) away .in ‘San Francisco. Two years, later, at the, height of:the Klondike gold rush, thousands of, people poured into west coast ports thinking only of the gold they would. glean from Klondike creeks. member of the whitefish family and although commer- cial fishermen have reported fish weighing 80 kg: (70 pounds), inconnu remain rela- tively, unknown. to. sport fishermen throughout Can- ada and the. United States. Neil Collins quickly. estab- lished his skill as a.guide and showed enthusiasm and charm as a natural story teller. : Me \We passed 4 high embank- * ment where several buildings were in evidence. A cloaked figure waved to us. and Collins . responded to the greeting. © “That. old woman," he explained, “for. many years lived by herself there and she is now over a: hundred years old.”. : Byte Later, we stopped at a deserted cabin where Neil. built a fire to make tea. He said the old man who used to live here was one of the few people, Indian or white, who. had a. speaking relationship with the taciturn and myster- ious Albert. Johnson — the mad trapper who fought to the death against a’ Royal Canadian .Mounted _ Police -posse on the nearby Eagle River during the winter 1932. Earlier in the day, Collins had described life on: the ‘trapline or trail in winter and the long distances travelled by dog team. The valleys of the Macken- zie River and its tributaries " form the homeland of the Loucheux Indians\ who, as hunters and trappers, are i led in the December, There were four men, three with their own dogs. It's nearly 800 km (500 | miles): that trip." The main purpose of the annual winter patrols accor- ding to the. book “The Lost, * Patrol” by Dick North was to deliver mail‘and check on the welfare of ‘individuals and isolated family camps along - the way. The patrols were’. discontinued in 1921. Factors contributing to the tragedy, as noted in North’: book, were heavy snows an prolonged’ periods of merci less cold. The constable .act-: .ing as guide had made’ only. ‘one previous patrol and from the opposite direction. 7 ‘Whatever the reason, they either bypassed a key turn in ; the trail or mistook one -¥ frozen, snow covéred river ° for another .... there are no sign posts in the vast reaches - and wilderness river valleys of the Richardson Mountains. Exhausted and almost out of food,'‘the desperate men attempted to return to Fort McPherson. After travelling nearly 1,000 km (620 miles) and spending 58 days on the trail, they died within 56 km {85 miles) of Fort McPherson. We decided to have a look at this tragic spot. The boat rounded the end: | of the island and the white pyramid shaped log monu- ment stood starkly contras- ted against the dark green of the forest. We landed and climbed up the embankment through the tall grass and fireweed and paused to read the i on the wooden remote Arctic forests. Such skills are tantamount to survival here as Neil Collins’ narrative of the “lost patrol” will attest. “The patrol left Fort Mc- Pherson for. Dawson in’ sign. “On this site Insp. F. -J. Fitzgerald, R.N.W.M.P. and S/CST. 8. Carter perished February, 1911, while retur- ning to Fort McPherson after an wristiccessful attempt to THE LOST PATROL . <° The. monument marks the last campsite ‘and, stands in memory of the North West Mounted Police constables who perished here‘in 1911. Neil Collins of Dampster Patrol Outfitters patrol to Dawson, Yukon by dog team.” The frozen bodies of Con- stables Francis Kinney and Richard O'Hara Taylor had been found several miles away in the previous day’s camp. : It was late February be- fore Corporal Dempster was directed to form a secorid patrol and set out from Dawson City on a search and rescue mission, As the Dempster patrol began to find the campsites of the Fitzgerald party, a terrible story of tragedy and. suffering began to unfold. Abaondoned harnesses indi- cated that the exhuasted and Starving meh were reduced Na details the to eating their dogs for food. A pot contained the frozen remains of a “stew” made of moose hid lashings. Neil Collins, standing be- side the wooden memorial, concludes the story. . “They first saw a rag tied. toatree... that’s a how they found the first two men. They were dead. Here they Canadian Railway Museum d's largest collection of railway Seeking the shortest route from the Yukon'’s rugged interior to the sea, the White Pass and Yukon Railway Company blasted through solid granite, bridged the rivers, climbed the moun- tains, and in less than two years had laid cold steel 175 km, (110 miles) to connect Skagway, Alaska, and White- horse, Yukon, Thousands. of passengers today still “follow the trail of 98" in the original White Pass view coaches, searching for gold on Bonanza Creek, where the Klondike Visitors’ Association owns a claim that’s free to all. Others guarantee gold for a fee. To the south in British «Columbia, the Forest Mus- - eum at Duncan, an hour's drive north of-Victoria, oper- ates historic logging engines and equipment once used to transport the giant Douglas Fir trees. Royal Train In 1989, the royal tour train, with Canadian Pacific's number 2850 at its head, carried King George VI and Queen Elizabeth from Que- bec City to Vancouver, B.C., a 5,200 km (3,200 mile) trip across Canada. For its stalwart perfor- mance, number 2850 earned for itself and all other Hud- son locomotives the right to be called Royal Hudsons. Today, one of its sisters, number 2860, hauls pasenger cars 64 km (40 miles) up the coast in a six-hour round trip from to Squam- shos, Montreal, 1886. As an added attraction on holiday weekends and special occasions, the museum oper- ates a replica of the John Molson, the first steam loc- omotives to run‘on the island of Montreal, which carried passengers and mail from St. “Lambert, Que., to -Rouses Point, New York. Algoma Central : North of Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, stretches a vast expanse of forest and moun- tains interlaced with count- less lakes and brawling riv- ers. Through this immense land, around lakes and moun- tains, over gorges and into river valleys, the Algoma: Central ‘Railway winds its way. , . One-day wilderness tours from Sault Ste, Marie take passengers 184 km (114 miles) north toAgawa Can- yon, where photographers shoot the scenery, fishermen try for trout and city dwell- ers soak up the rugged terrain. Oldest Settlement : Ontario's oldest settlement and site of the second Hud- son's Bay Company trading post built in 1673, is Moose Factory, on James Bay. A short a canoe ride from Moosonee, where the Polar Bear Express takes passen- gers more than 160 km (100 miles) beyond highway's end, Moose Factory has museum telling the story of the fur trade. Operated by Ontario ish. Number 2850 now sits thousands of kilometres to the east in the Canadian Railway Museum, the world’s largest collection of historic railway equipment, in St. Constant, Quebec, near Mon-s. ‘treal. . The museum -has more than 100 locomotives on display, including one of Canada’s oldest, number 144, built in CPR’s De Lorimier Rail Services, the excursion train ,rides down the Arctic watershed on.a one-day return’ trip (longer packages are available) from Cochrane, Ontario, 740° km (460 miles) north of Toronto. While in Moosonee, pass- engers can also visit nearby Fossil Island, in the Moose River, which yields fossils of . the Devonian period, more than 350 million years ago. First Coal Mine The Cape Breton Steam Railway in Nova Scotia oper- ates one of the oldest stan- dard-guage coaches in the world. Built in 1881" for the Midland Railway Company of Ontario, the “Miners Mus- eum” coach’ was purchased by CNR for rules instruction, and is complete with a coal- burning range and brass bed originally used by the travel- ling instructor. ' One-day excursions take passengers from Glace Bay to the small fishing village of _ pson Port Morien, site of North America’s first coal mine excavated by the French in the 1720s to supply fuel to Halifax, the history of rail travel is told through numer- ous maps, models, photo-~ graphs, coach cars and other in the the fortress L Be On the way to Cape Breton from Halifax are Canada’s oldest steam relics, the Sam- (1889) and Albion (1850s), once used to pull coal for the General Mining Asso- ciation. Today, the Sampson sits-on display in New Glas- gow and the Albion is in Stellarton’s Mining Museum. Fifty km (80 miles) east.of boit Railway Museum. Wakefield Express ‘Two short blasts of the whistle signal the departure of Ottawa's Wakefield Ex- press, On of the last steam engines built in Canada, the 88-year-old locomotive takes a six-hour excursion through the nation’s capital into west- hom CASTLEGAR NEWS, May 5, 1982 f four tragic story of “the lost’ patrol” Canada’s Northwest Territories. —Conodian Government Oitice ol Tourism phola. found snowshoes in the snow out on the river and here in the trees the last two men of the lost patrol.”. We stood in silence and tried to dismiss the verdant summer growth and visualize this same ‘spot in mid-winter 70 years ago. _ Growth is ever so slow in the Arctic and no doubt the same high, dark green spruce trees, ladened with snow then, enshrouded the two dying men. We returned to the boat and pushed off down the Peel River. The monument to the lost patrol must be on of the loneliest historic sites in all of Canada. equipment ern Quebec, following the historic Gatineau River, named after Nicholas Gatin- eau, an early fur trader. The river, used mainly for logging, has also claimed many lives, including Samuel Bingham's. Known as “King of the Cascades” for his ability to free tangled logs, Bingham headed home one evening in 1905, exhausted and sleeping at the reins. His horse got thirsty, lost its footing at the edge of the river, and Samuel Bingham hibi ALL ABOARD. Visitors relive railroad ‘history of the C d Museum at St. Constant, Quebec, near M H.C 100 historical locomotives and Railway pictures, over street railway cars, os well os tools, the 40.5-hectare (10-acre) of an 1800-era country depot. drowned. ~ i In Wekefield, there's water-powered grist mill, built in 1835 by Scottish millwright William Fairbairn which has been restored and is open to visitors, Wakefield passengers can also watch the train being turned around manually on a turn- table. For more information on Canadian vacations, contact the Canadian Government Office of Tourism, Ottawa, Canada K1H 0H6. include one of Canada's first steam engines anda —Conadion Government Oltice of Tourssen photo