June 24, 1987

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Academic, Spir |. Emotional, Physical

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You don't have to
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TORONTO (CP) Mary Duffy might not be considered
the epitome of beauty — at least not the kind preached by
advertising and fashion magazines.

Com with the stereotype of “young, thin, with a
drop-dead bone structure,” Duffy is, by her own admission,

it.

“A lot of women say you have to be thin to be beautiful,”
says Duffy, a former model who owns a New York agency
for larger-sized and petite models called Big Beauties-Little
‘Women.

“You don't have to be thin, any more than you have to
be young or tall of have incredible bone structure. Beauty is
more to me blue smoke and mirrors. What I try to do is
dissect the smoke and mirrdes.”

‘That's what Duffy, 42, has set out to do in her book, the
H-O-A-X Fashion Formula. It describes the various female
body shapes — represented by the letters H, 0; A and X —
and the most flattering styles for each.

WHICH ARE YOU.

Duffy's H-figure woman has a straight up-and-down
look with an sti the of the O
woman, who has a round or oval torso, is midriff bulge; the A

looks triangular because of heavy hips and thighs;
while the X is the i
set off by a wasp waist.

Her prescription for the H figure is to try to create the
illusion of a smaller midsection with elasticized waists and to
avoid any clothing that emphasizes the straight, boxy
quality of the waistline.

But the O woman, described in the book as “an egg with
legs,” should avoid anything that draws the eye to the
middle, such as belts and two-piece outfits that meet at the
waistline. Better, says Duffy, to wear drop-waisted styles
and create the illusion of vertical lines with long pearls and
single-color dressing.

full white blouse.

BLESSED, X :

Duffy says X-figure women should emphasize the waist
and the soft curve of the hips, while drawing attention away
from the bustline with loose-fitting tops. fe

“The X is blessed with the super femininity of her form,
but must resist the temptation to dress in a pointedly sexy
way. Such dressing gils the lily of her natural womanliness
and can actually make ‘her look tacky.”

The book contains drawing of styles appropriate for
each figure type for dresses, skirts, pants, shorts, tops,
coats, jackets, bathing suits and even lingerie, It also

a what are most
flattering and how they should be worn, as well as giving
grooming and makeup tips.

Duffy says dressing well comes down to simply finding
and exhibiting personal style — “a knack of projecting to
the outside world something who you are and what you are
by the way you present yourself physically.”

DEAL WITH REAL

Duffy, who suffered from the binge-and-purge syn-
drome of bulimia for more than 10 years until her early 30s,
said that now when people suggest she should lose weight,
she tells them: “Yes, maybe I should, but I'm probably not
going to if I haven't by now, so why don't we deal with
what's real.”

infortunately, Duffy says, people are judged not for
the beauty of their—hearts—and—souls_but by physical |
appearance.

“Life is too short to go out of the house even once
looking like a slob,” she says.

Step No. 1, Duffy says, is to rid the closet of any items
that were a mistake in the first place or are now out of
style.

“If you haven't worn it in a year, lose it,” she advises.
“Keep the closet full only of things you actually wear. Ifyou
have six things that look great on you, better than having 60
that are in disrepair, don't fit right or are hideous.

Our location is superb, just off the Trans-Canada
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Broad-hipped A figures should call attention to their
waists and broaden their upper torso with shoulder pads,

GUELPH, ONT. (CP) — A.
little boy fears thunder, but
his parents tell him he's a big
boy, and big boys aren't
afraid.

‘Things like that can lead to
problems when the boy
grows up, says an American
sexuality counsellor.

Some grow up “with a
sense of self worth that is so
damaged that we're fearful of
being found disappointing if
we talk about what we
want,” Jessie Potter told a
conference on sexuality at

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Potter, director of the Na-
tional Institute of Human
Relations in Palos Park,
Il, said parents too often
teach children that they don't
know what they know.

She said the message a
child receives is:

“What you see isn’t real.
What you see isn't there. As
they grow older, they fear to
take risks (in saying what
they want) because they are
afraid that what they say will
be discounted.”

Many people. behave this
way as adults, afraid to tell

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“All they're going to do
you have.”

their lovers or spouses what
they want from a relation-
ship, she said.

“Instead, they will tell the
other person, ‘If you really
loved me, you would know
what I need.’ That's too in-
complete for the other person
to act on.”

Potter said people often
come to her complaining that
even though they try to com-
municate their needs, their
spouses don’t seem to listen.

“If you're not getting what
you yearn fof, it’s interesting
to watch'to see why you don’t
get it,” Potter said.

“Tt may not be because the

is crush the few good things

Parents create problems

other person won't change,
but because we keep doing
the same thing. We don't
change either.”

CONFUSE LOVE AND SEX

In another session, sex
educator Carol Cassell told
participants that women of-
ten confuse love and sex be-
cause they have been given
the message that there are
two kinds of females — good
girls and tarts.

“All women were taught
that there are two kinds of
women — the good and
worthy — that mean’ worthy
of a prince marrying us —
and: the other, which you
would call cheap or sleazy,”
said Cassell, an instructor at
the University of New Mex-
ico in Albuquerque.

“So all women know they
have to walk this line be-
tween good and sleazy, which
means that women never
stop to think about what they
want and who they are.

“They're constantly up for
other people's approval of

§ their sexuality. If you appear

too sensuous, you get cen
sured, talked about, ‘Well,
she's that kind of girl.”
“All this is very serious to
women because if we are not

good, then good men won't
marry us,” Cassell said.

LACE PRIZED
AS ACCESSORY
FOR CENTURIES

DUGALD, . Man. (CP) — Lace, that intricate
combination of fabric and fine yarn, has beena prized,
elegant and alluring accessory worn by both men and
women for ce! Hees

The demand for lace was eo great, particularly
during the 18th century when it was considered a symbol
‘of status and welath by the European aristocracy, that
some extraordinary smugglings and thefts occurred.

“People used to wrap corpses in sheets of lace and
then-take the bodies out of the country, thereby
smuggling the lace,” says Susan Charles, assistant
curator at the Dugald Costume Museum, a few
kilometres east of Winnipeg.

“Few people know that lace was treasured more
highly than jewelry was,” says Charles, who can't hide
her enthusiasm for a subject many might consider less
than exciting.

SHOW HISTORY

Although today lace is little more than a feminine
addition to bed linens or womens wardrobes, its historical
significance is portrayed in the Dugald museum's
exhibition titled A Legacy of Lace.

The word lace usually refers to any ornamental open
work formed by looping, interlacing, braiding or twisting
threads.

It was first used by the Egyptians in plaited
head-dresses, but really had its heyday in Europe

‘ with Belei i the

Tatmagumeee cs 7

ithe t J, with Belg: 3
artistic centre of lacemaking at its height in the 18th
century.

Portraits from that time show upper-crust types of
both sexes adorned in wide lace collars and cuffs, garters
with lace scarves attached, and even lace rosettes on
their shoes.

HAS 13 TYPES

‘The Dugald depicts lace as a traditional
craft, an industry and a family treasure and includes 13
different types of lace ranging from crochet, used on
camisoles and tablecloths, to tambour work, character-
ized by its delicate floral patterns and worn as veils or
shawls.

‘The display also includes pieces of Valenciennes lace,
a Belgian type worn during the Victorian and Edwardian
periods which has a flat, cloth-like appearance, making it
ideal for use on pillows and underwear; and Maltese lace,
which always has the Maltese cross in the designs.

Charles says most of the lace in the exhibit has been
donated by Manitobans, and each garment has a story
attached to it.

For example, there is the cream brocade-and-lace
party dress worn by an 11-year-old gir) when she sang to
entertain company in her family's home at the turn of the
century.

Another piece, a sequined black dress, was said to
have been worn in the presence of Queen Victoria.

To show the history of the garments, the museum
has put them on cardboard-and-wire mannequins that are
arranged in tableaux vivant, or “living pictures’ style.”
The mannequins are displayed along with period
furniture, wall hangings and artifacts.

So lifelike are the arrangements that the 11-year-
old's party, complete with piano and fiddle, seems to be
going on in the corner while several elaborately dressed
women, one in the black lace dress, seem to be awaiting
the arrival of the Queen.

In fact, Queen Elizabeth visited the museum in
October, 1984, quite an honor for a museum that’s usually
considered just a “backwoods-type facility,” says Elaine
Brayshaw, Dugald’s program director.

Dugald was the first museum in Canada to be
devoted exclusively to costumes. It has more than 10,000
items of clothing, the oldest being an Irish dress and
matching shoes dating from 1765.

Brayshaw says the museum originated in 1953 with a
charity fashion show put on by the local women’
institute. Directed by Winnifred Van Slyck, now in her
late 70s and the museum's curator, the show's main
attractions were fashions of bygone days.

The show was so successful the group made it an
annual event and put the profits into the museum fund.
Now the collection is housed in a $750,000, 304-square-
metre building that contains display rooms, workshops,
storage and administration areas.

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LIBRARY
BOOKS ON

Castlegar’s books will soon be on the move! The
Kinnaird Branch closed on Monday, so the staff can
prepare for packing and moving shelves, but for the
convenience of our patrons, the Castlegar Branch will
continue usual library service for one to two weeks
longer. More details will be released later when we know
how the move is progressing.

Here are a few new books you may want to grab now
or pursue to their new quarters. ~

A new Lyn Hancock is a must for our many
naturalists, and her latest book Locking For the Wild,
should be a popular request. She describes her 30,000
mile journey across North America in the company of
Roger Tory Petersen, Robert Bateman, and other
naturalists, as they recreated Petersen's original odyssey
of 1968 which resulted in his famous Wild

‘ing in d, the group lied down
the Eastern Seaboard, across southern U.S. and north up
the west coast to Alaska and the Bering Sea, visiting
wildlife refugees and bird sanctuaries to look for changes
in the environment since the first trip. Hancock was
agreeably surprised at the success of the conservationists
in preserving America’s “garden” and at the wealth of
interesting wild life they saw.

Yet another gem for our’ insatiable gardening
with le

decide what effect you want to have — say, a fairy tale
woodiand garden, a breathtaking color display, or a
year-round cutting bed for floral arrangements — and
tells you how to set about it, using perennials so that your
creation then looks after itself with minimal care.

* .

After the hot favorite cookery books, fitness and
exercise books come a logical, panting second. Ballet is
the Best Exercise by Cynthia Gregory is our latest
appealing keep fit acquisition. Although most people will
do their exercising out of doors during the summer,
there'll still be some who'll prefer to limber up at home
with Gregory's graceful dance routines to the accompani-
ment of the well known music she suggests for each one.

. .

Hammond Innes, the well-loved thriller writer, has
turned to something more soothing than usual in a lovely
picture book called Hammend Innes's East Anglia. This is
a celebration of the part of England he calls home,
showing his favorite beauty spots and sharing some
private and llections in his delightful
commentary.

. * « F

Gone te Soldiers by Marg Piercy is a magnificent
epic of World War II which sweeps the globe, re-living
the atmosphere of wartime capitals in the U.S., Europe,
New Zealand and Japan and interweaving the stories of
10 remarkable characters — Louise, a New York romance
writer turned war correspondent; her ex-husband, Oscar,
a ved in i for the OSS, Daniel,
late of Shanghaiand the Bronx, whose mission is to crack
the Japanese codes; Bernice, who escapes life as her
father’s servant to fly as a fighter pilot ... are just some
of the very alive people Piercy depicts waging their
public and private battles.

. 8

Colleen McCullough’s short novel, The Ladies of
, shows the author at her warmest and most
light hearted. The time is just before World War I, the
place a small town in Australia’s Blue Mountains; the
disturbing presence living alone in the bush is an enigma
named John Smith; and the heart disturbed belongs to
Missy Wright, the youngest of three ladies living in a
house called Missalonghi. Her unlikely guardian angel
and mentor is a librarian with a taste for purple prose and
a scandalous past, who guides Missy to consult a wildly
romantic novel for the answer to her plight.
. 8 *

Four men are brutally murdered in Rome, Panama
City, London and Gdansk, all at the same time, 01.01
Greenwich Mean Time. One of the victims is a journalist,
the Rome correspondent for his paper, and his ex-wife
and fellow reporter, is determined to use their paper's
investigative resources to find out why he died. Her
editor insists that the leg work be done by the paper's
former star reporter, John Standing, now mysteriously
fallen from grace and little better than an unreliable
drunk. How does he know exactly where to start on his
quest which carries him through the labyrinth of
international finance, halfway across the world? The
pseudonymous author, A.M. Kabal, uses his insider
knowledge to expose this hidden world, this explosive
and chilling thriller, called Bad Money.

. * @*

Once Upon a Time is a treat for adults and children
to enjoy together. In honor of the 20th anniversary of
Reading is Fundamental (a non-profit organization
dedicated to the promotion of reading) many beloved
children’s authors and illustrators have contributed their
talents to create this unique book. You'll recognize the art
work of favorites such as Maurice Sendak, Tomie De
Paola, Tasha Tudor, to name a few, which accompany the
warm hearted memories, poignant stories, poems and
hilarious anecdotes, most of which were specially written
for the occasion.

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